Krabi Ao Luek 78 Rai for sale

Krabi Ao Luek 78 Rai for sale

Stunning Ao Nang Pool Villa

Stunning Ao Nang Pool Villa

Brisbane City, Queensland

Krabi Beachfront Land TOUR.wmv

Debating Between a Condo or a House

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

Debating Between a Condo or a House


Which is right for you?

By Melissa Paul



A condo can offer a good location at a less expensive price.
Buying a home is one of the biggest and most important decisions you’ll ever make. Whether you are a first-time buyer, or a veteran homeowner looking to trade up or make a new start, you will inevitably be faced with a number of questions. Your answers will lead you to the home that’s right for you.

One of the most fundamental questions all homeowners face is whether to buy a condo or single family house. There are advantages and disadvantages of each and only you can know what’s right for you.

For Boston newlyweds Michelle and Kevin Millsom, 31 and 36, it was an easy decision. With high-powered financial careers and no children, they were drawn to the excitement of the city and wanted their fingers on the pulse. They bought a penthouse apartment with a breathtaking view of Boston’s famous esplanade and Charles River.

“We enjoy everything the city has to offer—the restaurants, theatre, outdoor concerts. We walk everywhere and find the easy access to the airport to be a plus since we travel frequently for work,” said Kevin. “When we have children, we may think about a house in the suburbs, but for now this is where we want to be.”
 
Like all things, living in the heart of the city comes with tradeoffs. For the price of their two-bedroom/two-bath condo, they could buy a home three times the size, just a short 20-minute commute away. They share decision-making for their building with fourteen other tenants and pay pricey condo fees to cover the costs of insurance and upkeep. Their car sits idle most of the time in a $300 per month rented parking spot only to leave for short jaunts to the grocery store or visits to see family. But for Kevin and Michelle who want to spend their spare time out and about, the location and convenience can’t be beat.


On the other hand, Adriana Forte, 62, lives in a condo in the Boston suburb of Arlington and misses all that a single-family home has to offer. Six years ago, after her divorce, she bought a “condex,” (a two-family home with a shared wall) with the belief that managing a home would be too much for her alone. But it turned out to be the wrong decision for her. Now, she is desperately seeking a single-family house to call her own.

“It’s difficult to live with neighbors so close,” Forte said. “First there was the noise. My neighbors are night people, and every night they are just getting geared up when I’m trying to sleep. Then I found myself handling 100 percent of the finances and maintenance of the duplex—without compensation. I may as well be living in my own house!” Forte also misses the fresh air and private outdoor space. For her, maintaining a home and garden is pure enjoyment. The privacy is what she misses most.

What is most important to you? Give consideration to the following:

•Location – Where do you want to be? Are there options for both condos and single-family houses in this area?

•Privacy – Is it important to you to have complete privacy or do you find close neighbors to be a comfort?

•Responsibility – Do you need total control over decisions affecting your home or are you attracted to the idea of sharing decision-making with your neighbors?

•Maintenance – Are you a homebody who enjoys getting dirty in the yard or are you delighted with the idea of never having to cut a blade of grass again?

•Budget – How much do you have to spend? Depending on where you want to live, a condo may be the only option that meets your budget.

These considerations and others will help you determine the best choice for you now. And just remember, if your interests and priorities change in the years ahead, you can always sell your home and make a move, this time with experience as your guide.
http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

12 Red Flags That Should Raise Concern

12 Red Flags That Should Raise Concern

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/
Buying? Here's why you need a home inspection

By Michele Dawson



Indeed, more than 40 percent of the previously owned homes on the market have at least one serious defect, according to HouseMaster, a major home inspection company with offices in more than 390 cities in the United States and Canada.

"Virtually every 'used' home needs some repair or improvement," said Kathleen Kuhn, CEO and president of HouseMaster. "That's to be expected. But with today's high prices, you want to make sure that you are aware of any major problems in a house you are considering purchasing, and what it will take to remedy the situation."

Drawing from their own findings from more than one million home inspections, HouseMaster says the most serious home defects to be on the lookout for are:

1.Cracked heater exchange

2.Failing air-conditioning compressor

3.Environmental hazards including radon, water contamination, asbestos, lead paint, and underground storage tanks

4.Moisture in the basement

5.Defective roofing and/or flashings

6.Insect infestation -- termites or carpenter ants

7.Mixed plumbing

8.Aluminum wiring

9.Horizontal foundation cracks

10.Major house settlement

11.Undersized electrical system

12.Chimney settling or separation

Kuhn says most of these problems can be repaired. However, depending on the specific problem, the cost can be substantial, particularly if the defect involves one of the major systems. The cost could become a factor in whether you ultimately buy the house.

For example, a new air conditioning compressor could cost you up to $1,200. A new roof or repairs can cost at least several thousand dollars. A wet basement could cost up to $5,000 to remedy.

If you enter negotiations to buy a particular house, your agent should advise you to provide a provision for renegotiating or backing out of the contract if a home inspector finds major problems.

"If the property inspectors find that little or no corrective work is required, you have little or nothing to negotiate," say Eric Tyson and Ray Brown in their book, Homebuying for Dummies. "Suppose, however, that your inspectors discover the $200,000 house you want to buy needs $20,000 of corrective work for termite and dry-rot damage, foundation repairs, and a new roof. Big corrective work bills can be deal killers."

If repairs are needed, there are several ways to proceed if you still want to buy the house, the Dummies book advises.

•The sellers can leave enough money in escrow to cover the cost of repairs, with instructions for the escrow officer to pay the contractors as the work is completed.

•The lender can withhold part of the full loan amount in a passbook savings account until the work has been done.

•The sellers may give a credit for the work. Lenders may disapprove of this last alternative because there aren't assurances that the repairs will be made.

A home inspection usually costs between $250 and $400. Hire a qualified inspector. Try to get referrals from friends or anyone you know who has had a satisfactory experience with a home inspector. Also, look for affiliations with organizations like the American Society of Home Inspectors or the American Association of Home Inspectors. Both groups require its members to be certified, meet professional qualifications, and adhere to specific business ethics.

Once you make an appointment with a home inspector, it's important to be there.

Your investment of spending these few hours with the inspector could prevent headaches and save time in the future. As the home inspector examines the various systems and components of your home, ask him or her to explain what problems may be encountered down the road, what signs to look for, and how to prevent them. Try to learn how things work and how to maintain them. The inspector may also point out little flaws or oddities that don't measure up to being mentioned in the report, but may warrant keeping an eye on.

Says Kuhn of HouseMasters, "A pre-purchase inspection is your best protection against buying a home based more on emotions, rather than as a sound investment."
http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

How to Negotiate the Best DealSponsored By

How to Negotiate the Best DealSponsored By


Buyers have the advantage in this shifting market

By Rick Hazeltine

Buyers are finally being able to take advantage of cooling trends in previously hot markets. Multiple offers are no longer being thrown at sellers as soon as the For Sale sign hits the front yard.
Competition has dwindled in many areas as investors disappear and buyers take to the sidelines. Unless a buyer thinks his local market is headed for a big downturn, this could be the pause that allows him to get into the market with a few perks unheard of in recent years as a bonus.

So how do you know what shape your market is in? Economists believe that real estate is closely tied to employment, so if you’re in an area of growing employment, don’t expect to see double-digit depreciation anytime soon. In areas such as the Midwest, where auto manufacturing is king, prices have fallen sharply and will likely continue until the industry rebounds.

Here are 10 things buyers need to know to negotiate the best deal in a market shifting to their favor:

1. Human nature is the biggest problem for sellers and buyers to overcome in a changing market. Prices stagnate or drop a few percentage points and it’s amazing how different buyers and sellers react. Sellers still think their house is “special” and immune to the market. Buyers figure every seller is about to be foreclosed on and make ridiculous low-ball offers. Smart buyers do their homework, know what size home they need, how much they can afford and then search the market for what they want and negotiate fairly.

2. When you make an offer, know the recent comparable sales; it’s the best bargaining tool. “See what’s going on out there,’’ says Beverly Durham of ReMax Gold Coast Realty in Camarillo, Calif., where entry-level single-family homes begin at $500,000. “Make an offer $10,000 to $15,000 under what the last one sold. Even in this market, if you insult your seller, they won’t want to deal with you. Sellers know what the last one sold for. You want them to at least look at your offer.”

3. Find out as much as you can about the seller’s motivation -- retirement, job, divorce, wants to move up but only if he gets the right price. Durham says if a buyer knows the seller’s motivation they can negotiate a better deal or move on to the next property.

4. Multiple Listing Service (MLS) properties usually state what the seller owes. If not, your agent should be able to track down the figures. There’s a big difference in negotiating with an owner who owes more than the house is worth and one who has a lot of built-up equity.

5. “After 45 to 60 days the seller is usually absolutely sick of keeping their house spotless and sick of people walking through,’’ said Durham. This is when a seller may be the most anxious about selling their house as traffic to their house has likely fallen sharply.

6. Unless you’re incredibly handy and have time and cash, go after houses that are as updated as you can afford. This is easier to do in a stagnant or falling market and fixers aren’t usually discounted enough to be worthwhile.

7. In a tighter market, it’s not too much to ask the seller to add the closing costs to the price of the house. It’s better to put 20 percent down and add the closing costs to the loan than put 15 percent down and pay the costs upfront.

8. Items to ask for that shouldn’t offend sellers are paying for new kitchen appliances or washer and dryer. Most sellers will be willing to do so to close the deal. Durham also says it’s OK to ask sellers to pay up to the first year of homeowner association dues.

9. Don’t request anything that requires quality workmanship. “Don’t ask them to paint,’’ Durham said. “They won’t do it the way you want. They’ll do a lousy job.’’ Also, don’t get carried away and ask for the entire store. Be reasonable.

10. Make sure to look at the big picture. In changing markets you should be planning to stay for at least five years, so don’t get caught up in a $2,000 price difference. Remember, the goal is to get the house you want to live in for some time, not to impress friends with how you worked the previous owner.
landkrabi@hotmail.com                                              Krabi property

Furniture Terms

Furniture Terms                              http://krabiagents.multiply.com/
Design
Furniture
Fabric
Design terms

Color Scheme

The color palette used in a home. These colors help define your personal style. They can be contrasting (pink and red), complementary (red and green) or monochromatic (various shades of one color, such as light and dark green).

Focal Point

A visual element in a room that draws the eye, such as a fireplace, a painting, a piece of furniture or even a color.

Golden Thread

A common style, color or theme used throughout a house that ties everything together and makes your home uniquely yours.

Personal Style

An expression of your character and preferences. Your furniture style should reflect your personality, tastes and lifestyle.

Scale
The proportion or size of a piece of furniture as it relates to a room.
Furniture terms


Armoire

A large cabinet or wardrobe, with two doors and shelves on the interior for storing clothes or electronic equipment.

Banding

Inlay or marquetry that produces a color or grain contrasting with the surface it decorates.

Bombé

(French) An outward swelling. Applies to commodes, bureaus, and armoires.

Bowfront

A cabinet front that curves outward to appear convex.

Break front

A bookcase or china cabinet made of three vertical sections, the center one projecting forward beyond the two end sections.

Buffet

A small cupboard. The French definition of the word is "a small sideboard, a place for keeping dishes."

Bun foot

A flattened ball, or bun shape, foot.

Bureau

In America, the name refers to a bedroom storage piece commonly known as a "dresser." The French word, however, originally designated the red cloth covering for a writing desk, and, later, was used to refer to the desk itself.

Cabriole

A graceful, curving type of leg that swells outward at the knee and inward at the ankle.

Camelback

A curved sofa back characterized by a large central hump.

Case goods

Specifically, storage pieces made primarily of wood. More generally, refers to entire collections of wood bedroom and dining room furniture, including some pieces that are not storage, such as headboards and dining tables.

Couch

A 17th- and 18th-Century term for a daybed. Not used as a term for a sofa until recent times.

Credenza

A sideboard or buffet.

Dowel

Headless pin, usually made of wood, used in furniture construction.

Eight-way, hand-tied springs

Each coil spring is hand-tied into place with twine, interlocking it with other coils. Using a set of knots, the coils are tied front to back, side to side, and diagonally across.

Etagere

A set of open shelves for displaying small objects and sometimes having an enclosed cabinet as a base.

Gateleg table

A table with a folding leaf upheld by a leg that swings out like a gate. Popular in Colonial America.

Highboy

A high chest of drawers, deriving its name from haut bois, which in French means "high wood."

KD

"Knocked down." Term applied to furniture sold unassembled or only partially assembled.

Motion upholstery

An upholstered piece with reclining or inclining seating features.

Occasional tables

A term applied loosely to any small tables, such as coffee tables, lamp tables and consoles.

Patina

A surface texture produced by age, wear or rubbing.

RTA

"Ready-to-assemble." Term applied to furniture sold unassembled or only partially assembled.

Secretary

A drop front desk, often with book shelves above and drawers below.

Settee

A long seat or bench with a high back and often with arms.

Sideboard

A dining room piece with a long flat top for serving and usually equipped with drawers or cabinets for storing china.

Trundle bed

A low bed, which, during the daytime, is rolled under a larger bed.

Veneer

Thin sheets of wood applied to the surface of furniture for decorative effect.

Windsor chair

A chair with a wooden or rush seat, pegged legs, and a back of turned spindles.

Wing chair

An upholstered chair with a high back, stuffed arms and wing-shaped projectors at head level.



back to top





Fabric terms

Batik

Hand-printed material colored by dipping the fabric into dye.

Brocade

Originally heavy silk with an elaborate pattern in silver or gold threads. Brocade fabric has an embossed appearance.

Chenille

From the French word for "caterpillar," so named because chenille yarn is plush and fuzzy. Also used to denote fabrics made with chenille yarn.

Chintz

Originally any printed, cotton fabric. Now refers to fabric with a glazed or "polished" surface.

Damask

Named for the ancient city of Damascus where elaborate floral designs were woven in silk. Damask is flatter than brocade and is reversible. The pattern changes color on the wrong side.

Jacquard

Damasks, tapestries, brocades, matelass and all cloths with elaborate figures woven on a jacquard loom.

Matelass

French, meaning to cushion or pad. Refers to fabric with a quilted surface produced on the loom. A figured or brocaded cloth with a raised pattern.

Moire

A fabric, particularly silk, with a watered or wavy pattern.

Ticking

A strong cotton fabric used to cover mattresses.

Toile

A sheer cotton or linen fabric.

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

Where to Buy Antiques

Where to Buy Antiques                                    http://krabiagents.multiply.com/


Choices are varied, but buyer beware

By Suzanna H. Cullen

Once dominated by private dealers, high-end auction houses and tony antiques shows in East Coast and European cities, the antique market has undergone something of a revolution over the last 20 years.

Because of an enormous interest fed by an increase in flea markets, television shows and Internet exposure, the antique market has exploded, giving collectors more buying choices than ever. Buyers have so many venues to explore that it almost makes it more difficult ... and it certainly allows for a wide margin in quality and recourse.

There are pros and cons to each venue available, and I will map out each one so that you can choose what's right for you. Ultimately, it's best to explore all of your options to decide which method of buying is most appropriate for your level of collecting.

Dealers

If you want to take the fast route to finding out who are the most knowledgeable dealers in your area with the most authentic merchandise, call your local museum. Museums can't afford to make mistakes so they will only do business with dealers they regard as having the most integrity and best wares to sell.

The best dealers in the business offer a guarantee that what you are purchasing is guaranteed to be as described in a written invoice. They also ask for first refusal should you decide to sell the piece. Why do dealers want to purchase items they've sold to you? Really good things are hard to find—dealers want their good pieces back to sell again.


Also, good dealers want to teach you about antiques. It is in a dealer's best interest to have a knowledgeable buyer who understands the pieces, the market and the value. Another perk about working with dealers is that there is a very high level of service. They can arrange everything from shipping to insurance invoices to phone calls letting you know of an available and appropriate piece for your collection.

Treat antique dealers with respect. Do you walk into your attorney's office or the dentist or the department store and start bargaining? Expect dealers to give you a reasonable amount off if they have it in the margin, but do not expect ridiculous discounts. It is not possible, and it is offensive. Most people in the antique business are in it because of the passion for the objects ... not money.

You can learn about antiques by visiting galleries.



Photo courtesy of The Levison & Cullen Gallery.

Auctions

There are various levels of auction houses and, while the details differ in each, the fact remains the same: caveat emptor—buyer beware.

It is up to the buyers to be knowledgeable about what they bid on and purchase. While some of the higher-end auction houses will take back an item that is deemed a complete fake, most take the position that you buy at your own risk. Read the very small print in any auction catalog and bid sheet to see the policies.

While this can be a risky venue, it can also be very rewarding and fun. It is a great learning tool to be able to walk through the rooms and preview the items. You begin to understand why some things are worth more compared to other items.

Attending live auctions is really fun because there is so much energy in the room and it is interesting to see what objects sell for. But one misconception is that you can get really good deals at auctions. Occasionally this will happen, but it is rare. Most often, prices actually get driven up in an auction when bidders get so caught up in the moment they run right through both the estimate and their own price limits.

Even with less expensive pieces, it is imperative that you decide your spending level before the sale. Otherwise, it can cost you dearly. And don't forget, sometimes phone bids and faxed bids work, but sometimes they don't. It's always caveat emptor.

Often, collectors will ask a consultant to represent them at auction for three reasons. First, and most importantly, a consultant can vet the item for you and recommend whether you purchase it and for how much. Second, it is easy to lose yourself in the thrill of bidding and run the price sky high. A consultant represents the buyer and stops at the predetermined limit. Third, many collectors like to protect their privacy for security reasons. At the high-end level, anonymity is paramount.

Also, many people forget that the auction makes money two ways: the consignor pays the auction house a percentage to auction the merchandise and the buyer pays the house a fee on top of the hammer price.

Among the many places to buy antiques is at a gallery.



Photo courtesy of The Levison & Cullen Gallery.

Antique shows

At the very high end, antique shows are generally tied in with charity events. While the opening night is usually crowded, the rest of the show often falls flat because many people think that they are overpaying to buy at a show.

That's not necessarily the case.

Dealers look at shows as investments, advertising opportunities and places to meet potential clients. Most of the time the merchandise is the same price on the floor of the show as it would be in the shop. Dealers cannot afford to alienate buyers with exorbitant prices. Go to shows, talk to the dealers, learn about new subjects and if something strikes your fancy, buy it.

A number of shows today are vetted, which means respected dealers or other professionals review everything in each dealer's booth before the opening. If a piece is questionable, the dealer must remove it. This is the show's way of offering a further guarantee to the buyer.

Flea markets

America is crazy about flea markets. We love the chase, the hunt, the art of the deal. Even more than the auction houses, caveat emptor reigns at the fleas. It is a wonderful combination of sometimes finding great deals and good merchandise because dealers want quick sales. Other times you might find junk sold by dealers who don't have a clue about what they're selling. It is a wonderful, quirky slice of America where you can find the very best jewel tucked next to a piece of trash.

But there are several things to remember about flea markets. One, these dealers are more savvy than you may believe. Sometimes the prices are comparable to dealers with retail shops, but you think you're getting a bargain because you are at a flea market. Secondly, there is a tremendous amount of merchandise at the flea market, but most of it typically falls into the mediocre category.

We've all heard of the "great find" at the flea, but it's sort of like that one really great, huge fish story ... it happens once in a blue moon. Also consider that rarely, if ever, do you have any recourse. And you will have to feel out dealers in each individual market—some thrive on the art of the bargain, and some simply state the price with no room for haggling.

This is "buyer beware and be knowledgeable" territory.

Online auctions

What the Internet has done for the antiques market! There are a myriad of opportunities for buying various levels of quality online. Check them out to see which, if any, are right for you.

Higher-end auction sites, such as Circline and Sotheby's, offer guarantees to the purchaser. They also allow the purchaser to contact us with specific questions. It is nice to know who your seller is and that there is a guarantee to back up the items. Also, it is typical for these types of auctions to monitor the quality level and rarity of the items represented on their sites.

In another arena, eBay, an online auction site, is an anomaly that has done a super job. There is a tremendous diversity of objects, rarity and quality. Also, buyers can find out the history of the sellers before doing business with them. Additionally, eBay has had pieces go for really high dollars as well as others that slide through for much less, making it a great place to explore.

Just remember: There is no equal guarantee among online auction sites. Take a look at all of the sites and learn something from them. Like any auction situation, read the fine print and know your limit when bidding.

Ultimately, however, time will tell if Internet sites will replace dealers, auction houses, shows and flea markets. While many of the Internet sites have done so well, there will always be people in the market who want to touch and see the object before buying. Hopefully, everyone can continue to work together as it affords the most and best opportunities for the customers. It's another great market to learn from.

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

Know Your Leather

Know Your Leather


Understand what you're paying for when buying leather

Leather furniture is available at surprisingly low prices today. However, skin and dye qualities can vary greatly. Aniline-dyed leather is superior to surface-dyed leather. The latter is sometimes called "painted" leather because the dye only coats the surface while the former penetrates the skin and is visible on the back. To check, open a zippered cushion and look at the back. The label will tell you the care needed; if not, seek professional advice. Here are some leather terms you should know.

Split Leather

When a cow's hide is doubled in size by slicing it in half along its thickness, it results in two layers of equal thickness but not equal quality. The "split leather" is the bottom half of the hide, which has no grain, is stretchier, and has poor durability.

Top-grain

The upper layer of a hide that has been split is the superior top-grain. To tell if leather is top-grain, examine it under a magnifying glass.The leather will show tiny natural pores.

Embossed

Also known as "rectified" or "corrected" leather, this leather has had an artificial grain pattern heatset into its surface to imitate a high-quality full-grain leather.

Full-grain

This unsplit leather shows a natural (not embossed) grain.
Leather maintenance


Leather is treated with a protectant at the tannery, so generally cleaners are not recommended since they can harm the leather finish. Clean up spills immediately, but if a liquid does soak in, blot it with a weak solution of soap and water. Blot up greasy spots as much as possible, but do not use water. In time, the oil will be absorbed into the leather and become part of the natural patina that develops over time.

Vacuum leather furniture regularly with the crevice upholstery attachment of your machine. An artist's brush is handy for lifting durst from tufted areas and pleats. Give the leather an occasional wipe with a soft, clean cloth dampened with warm water to retard the buildup of body oils on the surface.

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

Bright Ideas for Your Bathroom

Bright Ideas for Your Bathroom


Ten great lighting tips

By Michele Dawson

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

The glorious new tub, the beautiful new fixtures, and the sleek countertops always get top billing in the bathroom remodel. But don't forget one of the players most worthy of the spotlight—the lighting.

Lighting designers say a mix of different lighting types is essential in the bathroom to help blend all the bathrooms elements and create a unified look.

Unlike other rooms of the house, the bathroom is crammed with an assortment of materials and finishes.

"You have wall tile, floor tile, shower tile, faucet hardware, towel bars, wallpaper and paint all in a space often smaller than 100 square feet," said Dan Blitzer, a Manhattan-based educator for the American Lighting Association.

There are three general types of lighting: general lighting provides overall illumination; task lighting provides light for a specific task, like reading, homework, and computer work; and accent lighting puts the spotlight on a piece of art, plants, or other favorite possession.

Sara Susanka, a Minnesota architect best known for her books, The Not So Big House (Taunton Press, 1998), Creating the Not So Big House (Taunton Press, 2000), and Not So Big Solutions for Your Home (Taunton Press, 2002), says a mix of lighting in different intensities adds interest and depth to a small space. For example, she suggests combining uplighting in a corner, a pool of light from a table lamp and accent lighting on an interesting feature.

"It's the contrast that makes it (the space) feel bigger," Susanka says.


Meanwhile, lighting experts say that homeowners undertaking bathroom remodeling projects are often in the dark when it comes to thinking about lighting.

"When we look at the amount of money that people invest in building or renovating bathrooms, a proper lighting plan has the potential to deliver dramatic results, costs only a small fraction of the project budget, and yet is often lacking or overlooked," said Gary Taylor, president of Living Lighting in Ontario.

Lighting experts suggest you focus on all the elements of the bathroom, including:

Showers. Light fixtures should be bright enough so you can see when you're shaving and shampooing. Also, choose one that can stand up to the water.

Tubs. Experts say you'll want good general light, which a recessed fixture offers. Aim the light's beam at the outside edge of the tub to reduce glare.

Window. Keep dressings and blinds open during the day to provide plenty of natural light.

Night light. Illuminate the floor in the toespace between vanities and cabinets with a linear lighting system.

Glowing light. Indirect - also called cove - lighting through a hidden light source provides a soft, warm glow to the bathroom.

Mirrors. Warm fluorescent vertical wall sconces will provide you with even lighting on your face—essential for applying cosmetics or shaving.

Vanities. A halogen light placed above the vanity provides cross lighting when used with wall sconces.

Table touches. Table lamps add a soft, human touch to the bathroom. But be sure

The ceiling. For an elegant touch—as well as some extra light—suspend a decorative light fixture from the ceiling.

The commode. Yes, experts even suggest placing focused floor or halogen fixtures above the potty for watercloset reading.

Lowe's Home Improvement Warehouse says on its web site that the options in bathroom lighting have dramatically increased over the past few years. One of the most popular trends is "design and combine" bath bars in which you choose the wall bracket (or fitter) you like the best and then select from the many available styles of glass shades to go with it.

And if you're afraid you might overdo the lighting, don't be.

"You can never have too much light in the bathroom," said Todd Phillips, president of lighting manufacturer Quoizel. "It's easy to install a dimmer control to reduce the amount of light to create a mood."

http://krabiagents.multiply.com/

Choosing Shrubs for Your Yard

Choosing Shrubs for Your Yard             http://krabiagents.multiply.com/


By Better Homes and Gardens

Shrubs can be a decorative addition that adds privacy to a yard.A yard without shrubs is, well, not really a yard.

Shrub basics

With all their wonderful diversity of size, shape, foliage, and flower, shrubs can turn a mundane piece of property into a beautiful showplace. Shrubs make the yard inviting and livable. You've probably noticed that builders always plant a few shrubs around newly constructed homes. There may be no trees or grass, but there are shrubs.

Shrubs, with their deciduous or evergreen foliage, are enormously decorative and highly useful. Like trees, evergreen shrubs may have broadleaf or needled foliage and can offer colorful berries or cones, interesting bark, and lovely flowers. Even in winter, their leafless, contorted trunks and interesting architecture enhance the landscape. Their size provides a pleasant transition between tall trees and groundcover plantings, softening the edges of boundaries, foundations, buildings, and walls. They also protect the soil, supporting and sheltering all kinds of wildlife.

Shrubs are versatile. Use them as groundcovers on slopes, as living walls, as backdrops for flower borders, and as screens to block street noise and dust. Put them where they'll obscure landscape eyesores, such as heating and cooling units, swimming pool mechanicals, utility meters, and trash can areas.

Use shrubs to accent pools, patios, and dooryards. Or plant thorny varieties to redirect children and animals using your yard for shortcuts.

Conifers are generating renewed interest. These cone-bearing, needled evergreens are available in dwarf forms -- more suitable scale for today's smaller properties. They offer an amazing array of foliage color -- soft blue, variegations in yellow or cream with green, as well as the traditional green. Whatever the colors, they really stand out in a winter landscape. Conifers also come in many forms -- weeping, prostrate, and topiary, in addition to the usual upright configuration.

Native shrubs are also enjoying long-overdue attention. Because they have existed in the same region long before European settlers arrived, and have adapted to local climate and soil conditions. Unfortunately, Americans temporarily lost interest in them, while other countries happily adopted them. But now we're recognizing their many low-maintenance virtues. They don't require extra watering and tend to resist pest insects and disease. And they're big favorites of local wildlife.
Shrubs for special situations


Weather

In many areas of the country, rainfall is never generous. And it's becoming less dependable in many other areas, too. If you live where water is likely to be restricted, choose shrubs that don't require much water. Some examples are olive, butterfly bush, potentilla, and barberry.

Avoiding deer damage

Deer can damage shrubs by nibbling their twigs, fruit, and foliage. Homeowners across the country are searching for ornamental shrubs that deer will ignore. Lists vary by region -- even by neighborhood -- but certain types of plants appear on many of them. Consider shrubs with thorns or prickers, resinous wood, aromatic foliage, and silver or gray fuzzy leaves.

Using native shrubs

Native shrubs that combine the virtues of beauty and low maintenance include:

American arborvitae

American beautyberry

American holly

Bayberry

Bottlebrush buckeye

California lilac

Carolina allspice

Chokeberry

Dwarf fothergilla

Mountain laurel

Oakleaf hydrangea

Oregon grapeholly

Rhododendron (some)

Serviceberry

Sweet pepperbush

Viburnum (some)

Virginia sweetspire

Attracting wildlife

Some shrubs with berries that attract birds and other wildlife include:

Barberry

Bearberry

Beautyberry

Blueberry

Brambles

Cotoneaster

Dogwood

Euonymus

Firethorn

Holly

Juniper

Viburnum

Wax myrtle

Shrubs for special situations


http://krabiagents.multiply.com/                             landkrabi@hotmail.com